A local racer makes a quick kick-turn at a Hesperus/Pine Needle Uphill-Downhill rando race recently. Taking a cue from its ancient wood and woolen predecessor, modern ski mountaineering – also known as “skimo” or “rando” in Durangonese – is quickly gaining a dedicated following in Durango./Photo by Steve Eginoire

The lowdown on going up

Skimo brings modern advances to dark days – and nights – of skiing

by Joy Martin

Looking for an alternative to the 6 o’clock rush hours of pre- and après work parties at the gym? Why not join the burgeoning subculture of folks taking to the snowy mounts for some lung-searing cardiovascular followed by a rewarding schuss and carb-loading foray?

Ski mountaineering – also known as “skimo” or “rando” in Durangonese – is essentially the combination of skinning up a mountain followed by gliding down it.

Think of it as the winter alternative to trail running and the latest in cross-training for warmer weather sports, such as biking, climbing and ultra-marathoning.

While the sport has been around for centuries in Europe, and the Swiss are busy vying for skimo to be an Olympic event by 2022, U.S. resorts are scratching their heads over this recent wave of endurance-crazed recreationists demanding uphill access. Why don’t these people want to buy a lift ticket?

But the big-muscle, full-body workout of skimo is slowly elbowing its way into Colorado. This past year, uphill skiers saw a positive move forward at Crested Butte, which now offers not only an uphill ski pass 4 for $10 but uphill ski trail maps, rental gear and even lessons.

Uphill skiing is currently prohibited within the boundaries of Durango Mountain Resort. However, locals can opt for laps on Chapman Hill for $5 a day or join the Hesperus/Pine Needle Mountaineering Uphill Ski Club (HPNMUSC) for a one-time fee of $50.

Stop by Pine Needle, sign the waiver, and you’re officially in Durango’s newest and longest-acronymed club. This membership gets you impromptu deals on gear, exclusive access to skin up and ski Hesperus before it opens each day and an opportunity to schralp with local superstars who provide tips for transitioning from the climb to the glide and back again.

That’s right: no lift required; just a hoary slope, some breathable outerwear, two waxed toothpicks and a set of lungs. Granted, the latest in climbing skins, featherweight bindings and a comfy touring boot will also come in handy.

Cha-ching, you may say. But compare that to the price of a season pass, and the calculator shows a whopping investment upfront with years of healthy return in sight.

“And you don’t have to buy all of the gear at once,” suggests Miles Venzara, owner of Pine Needle and founder of HPNMUSC.

He advises newcomers to start off on basic backcountry gear and slowly upgrade to the lighter, more expensive equipment over time, maybe acquiring better boots one year, high-tech bindings the next.

With more people than ever tackling the pasttime with a vengeance, local ski shops not only sell the setups but also have demos available for those interested in sampling before taking the plunge.

And then there’s technique. According to Venzara, when it comes to successful skimo racing, it’s not so much about strength as finesse.

“It’s not always the strongest guy that wins,” he explains.  Basically, he says, you can be the fastest or the strongest, but if you don’t have form on the skin track, it’s not going to get you the W.

And so, you must practice.

As a HPNMUSC member, you’re invited to join the morning carpools to Hesperus that typically leave town around 6:30 a.m. Depending on the weather and mood of the group, skiers can get in anywhere from two to four laps. Expect to return to town around 8:30 for an apres-breakfast or quick change before work.

Once you have the basics of transition down, it’s time for some friendly competition.

Mark your calendar for the morning of Sun., Jan. 5, the next HPNMUSC race at Hesperus. And if the idea of geeky gizmos and tons of Lycra really gets your blood pumping, set your sites on the Chapman Challenge during Snowdown.

And when you’re pretty sure your iron lungs, thunder thighs and passion for suffering are ready for a real challenge, sign up for the Power of Four Ski Mountaineering Race on March 1. This Aspen-based competition features summits of four peaks with 12,000 feet of vertical gain over 25 miles for teams of two. Not-so-serious racers can opt for half of that journey.

Keep in mind, training sessions aren’t always at dawn. Evening rando-rendezvous’ provide ample opportunity for dusk après, a tradition our European cousins have perfected.

Rando racer and backcountry skier Inge Perkins revels in the payoff – a descent off Sultan’s west face last spring./Photo by Steve Eginoire

This style of exercise/imbibe lured in local superstar and trail-running sensation, Jenn Shelton, after she participated last winter in a nighttime ski alpinismo race in Badia, Italy.

“‘Hold onto your poles tight or they’ll get ripped out of your hand,’” she said residents advised her concerning the hundreds of swarthy men and women pushing up toward the finish line at a lodge perched on a ridge using their “quick Italian strides.” Competitors then partook in liquid carb-loading till three in the morning before skiing (or opting for the cat-taxi) back down to town.

After experiencing the warmth and camaraderie on such a cold night, Shelton returned to her home in Ashland, Ore., and immediately began putting together her personal interpretation of the Euro-tradition, what she called “janky races with about 10 people followed by an inebriated barbecue.”

She’s thrilled to be in Durango now where such intensive sports are celebrated both after the sun goes down and before it rises. Her encouragement to newbies at the skimo starting line?

“Even when you think you’re going to be last, there’ll probably be someone worse,” she encourages.

So whether you’re lured in by beer-soaked carousing or a Thermos of steaming coffee or chicken noodle soup, it’s time to earn your turns. Don your tightest and lightest and head to the hills for some unpolished schralping and experience the inevitable side effect of perma-grin that sets in no matter the conditions: welcome to skiing before the Industrial Revolution.