Asparagus for mom

by Ari LeVaux

What is it about asparagus and Mother’s Day? You always seem to find the green shoots in omelets served in bed and on Mother’s Day brunch menus. Is there some symbolism at work here, or is the relationship merely a consequence of the fact that when Mother’s Day rolls around, asparagus is one of the only vegetables in season?

Celebrating Mother’s Day in the height of spring does make symbolic sense because by celebrating mother, we’re celebrating fertility. Spring is such a brilliant display of fertility you’d think Mother’s Day was created by Goddess-worshipping pagans, rather than a woman named Anna Jarvis, in honor of her mom, who’s birthday was in May.

There are some practical reasons why asparagus is good for mothers. If she’s pregnant, she’ll get a super dose of folic acid, a B vitamin important for preventing birth defects. Asparagus also contains the antioxidant glutathione, which is linked to cancer prevention, and is a good source of vitamin C, thiamin and vitamin B6. If mom ever gets a case of puffy ankles or swollen feet, bring out the asparagus. It’s a diuretic, flushing the excess fluid from those uncomfortably enlarged tissues.

According to Miss Manners, asparagus is one of the few foods acceptable to eat with one’s hands. This “asparagus exception” originated in a time when people ate with real silverware, which is susceptible to staining by asparagus enzymes. Back when silverware was mom’s exclusive domain, you’d have done her a favor by using your fingers and not staining her silver. These days, finger foods give a deliciously informal feeling to a meal, encouraging mom to let her hair down and relax a little on Mother’s Day.

If you want to grow asparagus in your garden, start by planting clumps of asparagus roots, called crowns, in well-drained soil. Plant them about 18 inches apart in trenches, and spread out the roots. When the first shoots appear, allow them to grow out into mature plants, which will feed the crowns and help them grow and spread. After two years of watching your asparagus grow up unharvested, you can start picking. During harvest season, the asparagus tips come up quickly. On a warm day they can grow 6 inches, but on cold spring days, they’ll put on mere fractions of an inch. After a five-week harvest it’s best to allow the remaining stalks to grow up and feed the crowns.

Mature asparagus plants resemble overgrown ferns, reaching heights of 4 feet or more, with bright red (and poisonous) berries dangling like Christmas tree ornaments, and providing shade to napping dogs all summer long. Because the plants are so large it’s best to plant them on the north and west sides of the garden, so they don’t shade the other crops.

Late summer, when the plants are big and visible, is when stalkers of wild asparagus ply the creek bottoms in search of the grown plants. They mark the spots where the plants are found, and return the following spring for the shoots.

Mother’s Day or not, asparagus is in season right now, and asparagus leek soup is a great way to enjoy it. I adapted the following recipe from one I found on epicurious.com. It’s simple, foolproof and one of the finest things I’ve put in my mouth. It also lends itself to making extra to freeze for later. Ingredients for 1 pound of asparagus: 2T olive oil; 2 cups chicken or veggie stock; 1 cup chopped leeks (white and pale green parts only).

Alternatively, if you have garlic growing in the garden, look for double shoots, one of which must be culled so the other can grow properly. Holding firmly to the bases of both shoots, push one into the ground while you pull the other. Spring garlic looks like leek, tastes similar, and if you call it “garleek,” it even sounds like leek.

In addition, I highly recommend serving the soup with a lemon peel gremolata, made with: 2t parsley, chopped; 4t lemon peel, grated; 1T fresh tarragon, chopped; 1 garlic clove, minced.

The soup is best made the day before, and chilled. Preheat your oven to 350°F and prepare the spears as the oven heats. Use one hand to grasp the base (the cut end), and gently bend the spear with the other hand a couple of inches higher up the stalk. The spear will snap at the point where it begins to toughen, usually about an inch or so from the cut end. Discard the cut ends, as they will be woody. Cut the asparagus into 2-inch pieces.

Combine asparagus, leeks (or garleek) and oil in a large bowl and toss. Spread on a baking sheet or skillet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and roast until asparagus pieces are soft and leeks are golden, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool.

Spoon the vegetables into a blender, add 2 cups broth, blend until smooth. Transfer to a pot. Chill, covered, until serving time.

Make the gremolata as follows, just before serving: mix parsley, lemon peel, tarragon, and garlic in a small bowl. To serve, re-heat the soup, thinning with more stock if you wish, and ladle into bowls. Sprinkle with gremolata and serve. It can also be served chilled. Even though it contains asparagus, this isn’t exactly finger food. Miss Manners would probably slurp it from the bowl rather than stain a silver spoon. Mom should feel free to do the same. •