photos by David Halterman

In 1916, Bert Loper and Ellsworth Kolb earned bragging rights as the first people to run a section of the Colorado River now known as Westwater Canyon. Nearly a century later, this 17-mile stretch of humbling whitewater and scenic flat water has become one of the most popular sections of river in Utah. The fall Westwater trip has become a tradition among Durangoans looking for one last river fix before the snow flies.

A perfect example of getting together and going nowhere: the time-honored, post-rapids party barge. Ben Lehman behind the oars somewhere near the Utah state line. Stacy Falk paddles through the Black Granite Gorge, home to the oldest exposed rock formation in Utah, dating back an estimated 1.75 billion years.

 

In this week's issue...

December 18, 2025
Let it snow

Although ski areas across the West have taken a hit, there’s still hope 

December 18, 2025
Look, but don't take

Lessons in pottery theft – and remorse – from SW Colorado

December 11, 2025
Big plans

Whole Foods, 270 apartments could be coming to Durango Mall parcel