A stranger in
town
"So how long have you been here
anyway?"
It's a question that's
followed me through much of my life. Particularly strong in
mountain towns, it is posed in a nearly Wild West fashion and a
suspicious eye always joins the inquiry. On first meetings, you can
count on it being the second phrase out of anyone's mouth. When it
comes to the response, exaggeration is always the rule.
"Going on four years,"
is a popular response that actually translates into "two years, two
weeks and 14 hours." The real heavy hitters casually slip half a
decade onto the end of their answer. I knew someone who went from
"10 1/2 years" in a certain ski town to "17 years" in just over a
month. The same guy, an Illinois transplant, would frequently boast
that his 4-year-old son was a Colorado native.
Still, you couldn't
blame him.The consequences of being a short-timer were painful
ones. "Hah, five years. You're just a baby. Talk to me after 15,"
was one jab I heard more than once in Crested Butte. In Crested
Butte, the quest for super-local status was measured in deeds as
well as days.
Once false terms of
residency had been established, the conversation moved on to
Herculean tasks performed in the name of residency in the sports
mecca.
"I skinned up Red Lady
in 32 minutes this morning," was always a popular winter vintage.
Acts of endurance were rivaled only by number of days skied the
year prior. "I had to go up to Selkirks in Canada for a month, but
I got 217 days in last year."
Summer was the season of
whitewater heroics, climbing near misses and obscene mileage on the
bicycle. Again, there was a belief that your skiing or cycling
prowess could somehow erase the reality that your formative years
were actually spent in a Connecticut prep school. Like the measure
of days, the same laws of exaggeration applied to one's
deeds.
After term of residency
and backcountry skill level were settled, conversation would
invariably turn to how good life used to be.
"Oh, you've only been
here five years (actually three and a quarter). You missed the
winter of '88. Outrageous stuff. Fourteen feet of fresh in the
month of February."
Others would go deeper.
"I remember when we only had one restaurant, no grocery store and a
season's pass was $75. Man, those were the good old
days."
Another would invariably
chime in, "Yeah, this place really sucks now. The streets are
paved. The houses are too expensive. And the place is overrun with
tourists."
In Crested Butte, the
real irony was that nearly everyone was from somewhere else. The
true locals were a dozen or so Somraks, Mihelichs, Spritzers and
Stefanics who had left Slavic Europe in the 1920s to come and work
the town's coal mines. While the transplants from the East and West
coasts sat inside the bar arguing about who belonged most, the real
old timers were content to rock on the porch, take in the view and
breathe in the good life. They knew where they were from, embraced
those roots and embraced their changed home. These were people who
had been around for 70 years, had never put on a pair of skis but
were accepting of newcomers and changes to their
community.
For me, one of Durango's
strong suits has always been that it reflects this state of mind.
Virtually everyone here is content to breathe in the good life, and
there's no real race for super-local status. Durango locals are
comfortable one way or another. Rather than challenges, handshakes
are the norm for first meetings.
As for deeds, I know
guys who routinely drop the pack on group rides or do 30 miles at
the Nordic center and never mention it. I've seen Olympic athletes
stop and help with a flat or belly up at the bar to share a beer
and a chat.
Granted, I've seen
incidents of "stranger" syndrome in Durango, but only at trace
levels. For the most part, people are secure in being here and
don't feel threatened. As a result, it's a better place to live,
even though the elevation isn't as high, the town isn't as remote
and the winter isn't as long.
At no time was this more
apparent to me than a few winters ago on a visit to my hometown of
Telluride. After a day of lift-served, we dropped into the Roma, a
downstairs bar I remember first visiting with my dad at the age of
5.
Tipsy and holding a
blended margarita in his right hand, a brash guy wearing a North
Face jacket approached me. Leveling a suspicious eye, he fired up
an Eastern accent and snickered, "I've never seen you before.You
just move here or somethin'?"
A few of his buddies
chuckled in the background, thinking they'd just scored.
I considered pulling out
the big guns and making him question his place in Telluride.
Instead, my thoughts turned to this side of the San Juans. Calmly,
I replied, "Actually, I don't live here."
Will
Sands
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