A journey east

It all began at the pyramids.

Nearly 40 years ago, my dad was enjoying a brief military career in the French Alps. From what I can tell, his duties consisted mainly of skiing, drinking wine and cruising Europe on a beat-up motorcycle. During one trip away from the military hospital, he managed to stray as far as Egypt and paid a visit to the Valley of the Kings. On a morning when other U.S. Army privates were getting their first tastes of Vietnam, he climbed to the top of the Great Pyramid and took in the sunrise. Afterward he descended the structure and entered deep into the Pharaoh Khufu’s subterranean tomb.

Nearly 20 years ago, my dad described it all to me in technicolor. I specifically recall the trip inside the tomb. He related the feeling that its walls were breathing with the pulse of energy as he sat all alone, hundreds of feet beneath that giant geometric structure.

That was all I needed. I was hooked, and not only on pyramids. The whole of the Middle East became one of my leading interests. However, Arab culture was a little sparse in San Miguel County. Consequently, I started reading everything I could get my hands on, and through pages, I explored the age of the pharaohs, spent time in the Bedouin culture of the Blue Men of the Sahara, read the love poetry of the mystic Rumi, and circumambulated the Kaaba in Mecca and set eyes on the mythic Black Stone.

My first year of college found me enrolled in courses like Arabic 101, the Geopolitics of North Africa and Islamic Mysticism. More importantly, it gave me my first direct exposure to the real culture, my first exposure to Arabs.

A boy my age named Jalaluddin Malik lived down the hall in my dorm. A first generation Syrian-American, he’d chosen to avoid the drug- and alcohol-induced college path I was on. Devoutly Muslim, everything about his day-to-day routine was impeccable, from his posture to the humble, bowed salutation with which he greeted everyone.

Born in Jordan, Mohammed Sawaie was almost cherubic in his collegiate khakis and oxford. Bald and graying, the nearly 60-year-old man virtually bounced around the campus, smiling at every turn. His countenance changed inside the Arabic classroom, however. Frequently, I faced his gritted teeth after slipping a word of Spanish in between my guttural Arabic. Following class, the cherub always returned.

Also an older man, Abdulaziz Sachedina took a nap in his office every day between 2:20 and 3 p.m. He was one of those rare figures that seemed haloed with light, always smiling and taking those around him into the glow. A professor of religion, he’d spent time studying with the Ayatollah Khomeini and lived in Iraq en route to London and eventually America.

Pointing to himself, he once said: “Atheists say that miracles don’t happen. But how could this boy who once nearly starved in the streets of Tanzania, find his way to Europe and America and become a teacher of higher learning?”

There was Attiyah, the Arab janitor who also was busy solving the philosophic riddles of the universe between sweeps of the broom, and there were dozens of others, people with names like Waddah al-Khatib, Carine Saddy and Miriam Nowroozi. They came from Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey, Algeria and yes, Iraq.

During a summer trip, I saw the source firsthand. Hundreds of miles from Mecca but just north of the Iraq and Iran border, the former Soviet republic of Azerbaijan is very much the Arab Middle East. Like my Arab-American friends, the people at the source were among the most compassionate and dignified I’ve met anywhere. After this trip, four years in the Arabic classroom, a major in Middle Eastern studies and a year spent working at the Middle East Institute, I have yet to meet the so-called “evil-doers.”

A couple weeks ago, a conversation turned to warfare in the Middle East and Afghanistan. “I’ve spent a lot of time in these places,” I was told. “These aren’t just numbers for me. These are names and faces.”

As the “Operation Iraqi Freedom” and the “Shock and Awe” campaign come to us over our television screens, we can remember that this is not a video game or a sporting event. Arabs are not universally evil. They are not nameless “towel-heads” or people wielding curved swords and drinking the blood of Christians. Contrary to reports, they are no less human than taxpaying Americans.

There are names, faces and families on both sides of the battlefield.

-Will Sands


 

 

 


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